Two very different but both eccentric and detour-worthy buildings in Northamptonshire - which seems on the face it a most normal central, English, unremarkable county. One is in Northampton itself, in an unremarkable early 19th century urban terrace of tall narrow houses. 78 Derngate has in fact a tardis-like interior, once decorated by Charles Rennie Mackintosh in most outlandish designs for the time - 1916-17 - and now restored or rather recreated * to match the original.
Hard to say what the most startling - the black-painted hall room opening from the street, stencilled with a forest of triangles and geometric trees
or the guest bedroom with walls and beds covered in striped fabric whose design anticipates Bridget Riley's moving patterns.
Bernard Shaw, when a guest, promised his hostess that he slept with his eyes shut so would not be unnerved by the eccentric décor.
In conservation terms, the whole project is perhaps excusable. Only a few original features survive, including a large bath and a silvered window-pane for Sir to shave by, plus some built-in furniture and fragments of CRM's decoration. For most of the past century the building was put to uses unconnected with Mackintosh's patrons the Bassett-Lowkes, so there was little to preserve in decorative terms, although the full-on quality of the reconstruction is rather like an architectural themepark. and one exits into the everyday street feeling a bit weird.
* more here on the recreation
Next stop an even more remarkably unrestored building now over four centuries old, the Triangular Lodge near Rushton, built in 1593-5 by Sir Thomas Tresham. Literally so, for Tresham designed as well as paid for the construction, as an embodied device signifying the 3 that both began his name (tres) and symbolized the Trinity (Donne's 'three-personed God') in the Christian tradition.
There are pyramids and crockets and finials and inscriptions too from the Vulgate and Mass.
While perhaps not as freakish in its own time as it appears today, it must have been always unique. And well-built, amazingly preserved - conserved one assumes since it came into the care of the Ministry of Works - aka English Heritage / Historic England etc etc - with no need of re-making.
In many ways the most bizarre feature is its triangular structure, with three faces - such an unfamiliar aspect that in an unsettling experience one walks round almost seeking the fourth side only to return to where one started without finding it.